It wasn’t too long ago that you’d struggle to find a decent craft beer on tap in the heart of Melbourne, let alone in the country. Yet these days, head to the Dandenong Ranges and you’re practically spoilt for choice, with Kelly’s Bar & Kitchen in Olinda offering up a steadily growing choice of quality brews just a few kilometres from Olinda Cellars, with its wall of Aussie craft beer, and Oscar’s Ale House in Belgrave.

Housed in a heritage-listed log cabin that could have been plucked from anywhere in the world, Kelly’s has enjoyed a colourful history. Originally a log cutter’s home, it became Miss Portelli’s tea rooms – the first hospitality venue on the mountain – where a gypsy woman would practice tea leaf reading before operating as a Hungarian restaurant then Irish pub Kate Kelly’s. Today it’s in the hands of owners who have expanded the drinks list in all directions, host live music three nights a week and have brought in a Swiss chef who specialises in contemporary Australian food with a French twist.

As part of their overhaul of the drinks list, which now includes 30 ciders, local and interstate wines and more than 120 spirits and liqueurs, Kelly’s has a number of Aussie micros on tap and a rotating guest tap that often brings limited release beers, such as Otway Estate’s Wild Hop Organic Ale, to the Ranges. There is a growing list of craft beers in the fridge while they’re not averse to a little experimentation either, creating a selection of beer cocktails for the run up to Christmas in 2010.

Just as the building itself captures the feel of a bygone era, so does the venue, with cosy corners, two open fires and a bar side darts board reminiscent of an old school pub. Located on the Mt Dandenong Tourist Road, just around the corner from the lookout and its stunning views over Melbourne and beyond, it’s proving as popular with tourists as locals and playing a role in bringing craft beer to a new audience.