In the words of Monty Python: “And now for something completely different.” Why? Because the Moon Dog crew could not have set out into the beer world with an approach that was any less outlandish or that eschewed the advice to be found in any “How To Start Your Own Brewery” guide more completely. From the word go, the trio made up of two violin-playing brothers and their marvellously monikered mate have set out to create beers that meld styles, use all manner of unusual ingredients and frequently get to see the inside of barrels before being unleashed.
In keeping with their unique ethos, Josh and Jake Uljans and Karl van Buuren have also situated their microbrewery in a spot equidistant between Carlton United Breweries headquarters and the Duchess brothel. What’s more, they’ve put it together from parts that include those used for seaweed-based cosmetics and an open fermentation tank from the former Wagga Wagga brewery that hasn’t been operational in around 80 years. Oh, and they’ve hung chandeliers from the ceiling of their factory unit too.
Prior to releasing their first full commercial release, they teased the market with beers ranging from ales featuring pineapple and coconut, highly smoky beers, an Imperial Gingerbread Stout and a whopping pale ale that counted rose and chrysanthemum water among its ingredients. Bearing names such as the The Artisan Poser, Perverse Sexual Amalgam and the George Freeth Memorial Brown Ale – and featuring suitably dramatic packaging – they’re unlike anything to grace the Australia beer market. Unsurprisingly, they’ve sharply divided opinion between those who seem them as crazed pioneers on a brave journey into uncharted waters and others who see them merely as crazed idiots.
As far as we’re concerned at The Crafty Pint, it’s an experiment we’d love to see succeed. A year or so before they opened, we were telling all and sundry how we wanted to see an Aussie brewery open that didn’t bother with 4.5% pales and an easy-drinking golden ale for newcomers, but went all out from the word go to make beers that would excite even the most hardened beer geek. Two weeks later, we found Moon Dog’s business card on a bottleshop counter. The rest, as they don’t quite say, is about to become history.
Moon Dog Beers
The Regulars
There are no regulars
Specials
Moon Dog Melon Gibson
The opening salvo in what will become Moon Dog’s Magnificent Mullet series of beers, created in tribute to one of the great hairdos of the past (or concocted after sampling some of their own product, perhaps). The three beers are all kind of witbier-y and kind of Berliner Weisse-y thanks to the addition of a wee bit of wild yeast. In the case of Melon Gibson, the defining factor is the, you’ve guessed it, melon – or watermelon, to be precise. The boys hacked more than 100kg to pieces using some sort of rearranged clothes hanger implement and added it late in the brewing process. The outcome’s a cloudy and very quaffable number, with the fruity sweetness presence there subtly in the aroma and to taste with just a hint of tartness to finish. A quirky approach that delivers the first truly sessionable Moon Dog beer. Roll on McGuava and Billy Ray Citrus.
Available:
Royston Tap
More tbc when bottles are released
Style: Fruit Beer
Strength: 5.6%
Bitterness: 10 IBU
Moon Dog Symbiotic Solipsism
It’s always nice to see brewers joining forces with other producers to expand their horizons. Already the Moon Dog chaps have hooked up with neighbours Mt Goat and CUB for the Abbey Collabbey beer brewed for Good Beer Week and now they’ve made a beer in cahoots with Coffee Supreme, namely a coffee and raspberry amber ale. The coffee is of a roasted nature (as opposed to the more fragrant “green bean” type found in Mt Goat’s Coffee IPA, for example) and the raspberry comes across fresh and fruity, with bitterness minimal and alcohol barely noticeable. The various elements all sit nicely together, but our bottle was lacking carbonation. As a result, it would be good to revisit one with the requisite bubbles to see just what the brewers intended.
Available:
Slowbeer
Carwyn Cellars
Purvis Cellars
Blackhearts & Sparrows
Purvis Beer Richmond
Smith Street Cellars
Local Bottle Store & Provisions
McCoppins
Nillumbik Cellars
Style: Coffee & Raspberry Amber
Strength: 7.9%
Bitterness: 30 IBU
Moon Dog Gingerbread Brown
“Ain’t no stopping us now-ow! We’re on the move. We’ve got the groove.” Don’t know about you, but we can really see the Moon Doggers prancing around like McFadden & Whitehead performing their disco classic while knocking out what, at present, seems to be an unstoppable line of crazy beers with silly names. Not in a Hey, Hey, It’s Saturday! racist embarrassment kind of way, more a kind of “Yes. We. Can.” attitude, boosted by a subtle undercurrent of gay abandon. Latest off the conveyor belt is the Gingerbread Brown, which, according to one of the brewers “funnily enough, smells like gingerbread.” Given it was racked onto 50kg of gingerbread baked by Biero, perhaps we shouldn’t be surprised. It also tastes “spicy, brown sugary, bready, treacley… and gingerbready!” There’s little bitterness, just lots of spice and sweetness. And flared bottomed good times, no doubt.
Available:
Biero
Local Bottle Store & Provisions Growlers
Style: Spiced Brown Ale
Strength: 7.5%
Moon Dog Black Lung
The Black Lung first appeared as a teaser keg at Josie Bones during Good Beer Week, where its no holds barred smokiness was undermined a little by a lack of body. No such problem this time around as it gets a full release, complete with tweaked recipe and a rich, smooth mouthfeel. Considering there’s both peated malt and a bourbon barrel at play, it’s a surprisingly rounded affair, with plenty of sweetness in the malt profile to balance the smoke and oak. The effects of the bourbon really come into play in the mouth, rolling around your tongue in such a manner as to make you wish it was mid-winter again. Well, almost. The chances of some still being around Crafty Towers next winter are slim, however, as this is our pick of the Moon Dog releases to date.
Available:
Carwyn Cellars
Purvis Beer Richmond
Smith Street Cellars
Local Bottle Store & Provisions
Slowbeer
Style: Barrel-Aged Smoked Stout
Strength: 7.7%
Bitterness: 40 IBU
Moon Dog Perverse Sexual Amalgam (bottles)
The beer that debuted at The Crafty Pint’s first birthday bash, Festival of the Frothy, is back in a strictly limited bottled release. So limited, in fact, the brewers are already bemoaning how little of it they have and it’s only just started leaving the brewery. More has been laid down, but will be months away. The Amalgam is likely to be the first of many wild or sour ales from Moon Dog. It’s a lightly carbonated dark ale that spent several months in oak with some tart cherry plums and comes complete with a suitably twisted label reminiscent of Chris Cunningham and Aphex Twin’s Monkey Drummer or the denouement of Air’s How Does It Make You Feel? video. Inside, the sourness of the aroma is leavened by hints of sweetness (the dark muscovado sugar perhaps) and a touch of oak and the tartness of the flavour is again held in check; there’s nothing sharp here, rather similarities to a bretty wine. Perversely quaffable.
Available:
Carwyn Cellars
Purvis Beer Richmond
Smith Street Cellars
Local Bottle Store & Provisions
Slowbeer
Style: Wild Ale
Strength: 6.9%
Bitterness: 14 IBU
Moon Dog Henry Ford's Girthsome Fjord
So, it’s got a ridiculous name, is described as a “Bulgo-American India Brown Ale” and has a list of ingredients that could be entered into a short story competition; little wonder there’s lots going on in Henry Ford’s Girthsome Fjord. A typically Moon Doggian mangling of styles, this has hops aplenty, a splash of brown sugar to accompany the malts and a mix of yeasts, including a Belgian Trappist one that does its level best to dominate proceedings. Not that that’s an easy task. Its distinctive character might pop up first on the nose and linger fruitily in the mouth, but as you work your way through this deeply dark brown beer, don’t be surprised to have whiffs of treacle or sweet chocolate raise their head, even a hint of piney NW US hops. There’s plenty to chew on too, and surprisingly little noticeable bitterness given the hop content in an undeniably girthsome beer.
Available:
Carwyn Cellars
Purvis Beer Richmond
Smith Street Cellars
Local Bottle Store & Provisions
Slowbeer
Style: Belgian India Brown Ale
Strength: 8.9%
Bitterness: 65 IBU
Moon Dog Pumpkin Porter
Now they’ve started they just can’t stop. Hot on the heels of the Skunkworks is a return of the Pumpkin Porter that made an appearance in smaller volumes last Halloween. Featurig 35kg of roast pumpkin in the boil (plus honey, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg), the only thing that is missing is the usual barmpot Moon Dog name. According to the boys, it’s “a black ale with golden-red hues”, “dark, smooth and roasty” with “hints of dark malts on the nose” ending with spice and a faint honey note. On the palate it has “some mild chocolate, earth and spice, with some sweet pumpkin pie, light alcohol and balanced bitterness.” It has even allowed brewer Josh to use one of his favourite words again, as the mouthfeel is “smooth and sensual” apparently.
Available:
Royston
The Local Taphouse St Kilda
Biero
Baden Powell
Style: Pumpkin Porter
Strength: 7.0%
Bitterness: 45 IBU
Moon Dog Perverse Sexual Amalgam
One of the best gifts we received on the occasion of our first birthday at The Festival of the Frothy was the decision of the Moon Dog brewers to give us the first keg of Perverse Sexual Amalgam, a wild black ale to which has been added all manner of funky yeasts as well as, at some point in its existence inside some of their many barrels, tart cherry plums. The result is a deeply dark ale with a light white head that hints at a bright future for the boys. Sour and tart, for sure, but in a balanced, smooth manner that is remarkably moreish. Apparently, the brewers themselves now reckon they didn’t make it tongue-strippingly sour enough… Either way, it was good enough for The Local Taphouse to beg for a keg for their St Kilda venue, with the remainder to appear in bottles at some point soon.
Available:
Festival of the Frothy
The Local Taphouse St Kilda
Style: Barrel-aged Wild Ale
Moon Dog Skunkworks Double IPA
Having tested the water / teased the beer geeks over the past few months with occasional single keg releases, Moon Dog have finally got their brewery fully up and running and popped a beer into bottles. As you’d expect, said bottles are suitably off the wall, bringing lunacy to the land of labels (wonder what the collectors societies will make of them?), as well as upfront honesty with a complete list of ingredients and when they’ve been added to the brew. We’re actually a little late with this listing as we didn’t allow the first bottle we snaffled off the boys time to fully carbonate; patience has delivered what we believe they intended. Which is a hugely hop led beer with a twist, the twist being the time it spent in cognac barrels. The hops are predominantly of a piney nature on the nose, while warming allows hints of vanilla and a touch of booze to come through. Once imbibed, the dense, cloudy amber beer delivers some caramel malt flavours but they play second fiddle to the resiny hops, which build to a citrus marmalade bitterness that’s surprisingly inoffensive given the reported IBUs, and are given an added dimension by the barrel aging. There’s a spicy heat to it too. A beer it will be interesting to watch evolve, assuming they ever make a beer twice.
Available:
Slowbeer
Carwyn Cellars
Purvis Cellars
Purvis Beer Richmond
Local Bottle Store & Provisions
McCoppins
Blackhearts & Sparrows
Beer DeLuxe
Biero
Josie Bones
Penny Blue
Smith Street Cellars
Dorset Gardens
Prince Wine Store
Style: Barrel-aged IIPA
Strength: 9.1%
Bitterness: 105 IBUs