There's a line in the Sh!t Beer Geeks Say! video from Good Beer Week 2013 in which one of the geeks comments that a brewery's beer isn't the same since they increased capacity. It's probably the kind of thing that will have crossed the minds of one or two as 4 Pines went from a Manly brewpub knocking out all its beers on an in-house 500 litre system to owners of a 5,000 offsite brewery - via a few contract brews of its big sellers. It's a thought that is diminished pretty much any time you drink one of their beers as they continue what must be one of the smoothest transitions from said brewpub to one of the country's largest craft brewers. This Oktoberfest beer is their latest quarterly bottled Keller Door release and, while it doesn't get us hot under the collar like the outstanding ESB (little does at the minute, except maybe the prospect of Steve Mason, the Polyphonic Spree, Fuck Buttons and three big beer events in the next 16 days), it's none too shabby either. For a start, it looks gorgeous - a glowing copper with fluffy white head - and while it possesses the caramel and toffee characteristics of the style, they're not overbearing, with the gentle aroma and soft bitterness of noble German hops topping and tailing it all rather elegantly.