True South’s mission to irrigate the Bayside beer desert with craft beer marks its second anniversary today. The brewery and restaurant opened in a converted mechanic’s garage on the beachfront in Black Rock back in 2009 and, after a short delay securing its license to brew, poured its first beers for the public two years ago today. To celebrate the occasion, they will be cracking a new beer – the first solo project from head brewer Sam Fí¼ss’s sidekick Brian – for the first time this evening.
“It’s been really good,” says Sam. “We’ve had some ups and downs but have a good team here and everyone in the neighbourhood and surrounding areas is enjoying having us around.”
For those locals that like good beer, it’s hardly surprising. The closest pub to True South) when it opened has since closed, leaving the Beaumaris RSL and the Sandringham Hotel – more pokies and parmas than pilsners and pales – as the other watering holes in the vicinity.
“We’re winning over the crowd,” says Sam. “I knew when I started here that I had to develop the beers very carefully. I couldn’t go out and do a big, punchy IPA as it’s a bit of a beer desert here. The response that we’ve had to the beers and the styles has been fantastic. The first year was a case of finding our feet and seeing where we fitted into the community; since then we’ve refined things to get to where we are. Yesterday, we were fully booked for lunch so it’s just getting better and better.”
With “an easy-drinking lineup” (including, if you haven’t yet visited, a fantastic New World Pilsner) embellished by a steady stream of “Single Batch” releases that often appear at craft beer bars across Victoria and sometimes further afield, she’s been taking a two-pronged approach to spreading the True South name. The latter has included a cherry coconut porter, an aged Scottish heavy and, most recently, a rich, sweet coffee-infused ale that made an ideal dessert beer.
“The Mint Ninja was my favourite [limited release],” says Sam. “It was an awesome experiment, using the mint from my garden at home and the Sorachi Ace hop that was new to Australia. The IPA that we’re launching tonight is Brian’s first experiment, an American style IPA with Simcoe, Galaxy and Cascade that’s really interesting.”
Aside from the beer, the venus has been winning plaudits for its food too, ever since Argentinean chef Mauro Callegari took over in the kitchen. A glowing review in Epicure in The Age is the most recent, claiming that in appointing a Latin American head chef and giving him free rein, “history may prove them the vanguard of the latest bona fide food trend.” Being summer, they’re also making full use of the venue, with the upstairs function room opening every Sunday from 3pm to 9pm for sessions, adding acoustic music on the deck to the views over the bay.
In the meantime, you can check out the Clock Tower IPA from today at the brewery or look out for it appearing on tap at the likes of the Yarra Lounge and Dexter Bar and Cafe later in the week.
