Get Bent

June 13, 2014, by Crafty Pint

Get Bent

For months now, many Canberrans have driven, walked or ridden agonisingly along the inner Northern suburb streets of hip Braddon, eagerly awaiting the opening of BentSpoke Brewing Co, Canberra’s newest brewery and bar. And on Friday, June 6, their prayers were answered as the tarps unfurled, the grandiose wooden entrance was unbolted and BentSpoke finally becoming a reality.

Hoping to ease themselves into their venture with a "soft" opening on Canberra’s traditionally quiet Queen’s Birthday Weekend, owner Tracy Margrain was somewhat "overwhelmed with the response". The power of social media, word of mouth, great beer – and the not inconsequential fact that her partner and BentSpoke’s head brewer is an Aussie brewing legend – equated to reports of up to 3,000 litres of beer and cider sold in just the opening three days. Opening with an initial core range of five beers and one cider, Tracy and co-owner Richard Watkins expect the full fleet of 18 taps, many of which will feature seasonable and rotating brews, to be fully operational by the end of the year.

Richard is of course synonymous with quality beer to many beer lovers, especially those who reside in the nation’s capital. He was head brewer at the Wig & Pen Tavern in Canberra for 17 glorious, hop filled years, twice winning the Australian International Beer Awards (AIBA) Champion Small Australian Brewery trophy in that time, most recently in 2012. But, shortly after that victory and with a lifetime beer experiences from around the world behind them, the couple "felt the time was right" to start up their own place and "create their own beer experience."

And what an experience it is.

Customers walk in off the street into an industrial yet polished and tidy venue. Behind the bar, the brewing vats shine and glisten in full view of the clientele, giving customers a real feel of how a brewery operates. Patrons on this level have the choice of sitting and mingling with one another on tall wooden stools or relaxing on high seats fashioned from steel kegs. A staircase on this level leads upstairs to a larger, more formal area. There, tables and chairs neatly align with one another in this dining area, together with a smattering of high stools looking out on the bustling Elouera Street, with the Braddon and Civic skyline in the background.

While the initial selection of beers is understandingly limited whilst the team finds its feet, the range of styles is outstanding. India Pale Ale aficionados can indulge in the Crankshaft Orange IPA with its cloudy, apricot hue, made with liberal amounts of US Centennial, Citra, Cascade and Simcoe hops. This beer releases rich pine aromas with strong flavours of orange and citrus; a resounding winner in Tracy’s eyes.

While Richard treats his beers like children, unable to decide which he prefers, he has a soft spot for the Braddon Bitter, which he says "has a different character to the other beers." Using a traditional handpump, the Braddon Bitter consists of a delicate malt backbone and soft mouthfeel and is guaranteed to be a big hit during the Canberra’s brutish winters.

 

Bentspoke-grab-2
The happy couple

 

On the other end of the taste spectrum, the Adam’s apple cider appears to have been a roaring success too. With apples crushed onsite by whoever they can get hold of (chefs, dishies – even the brewers themselves), BentSpoke has made a delicious and refreshing, full-flavoured cider. Tracy has also indicated the possibility of putting a second cider on tap due to the popularity of the Adam’s apple.

The food is well matched to the range of beers, with iconic beery favourites like hot chicken wings and ploughman’s lunch as well as hearty tucker such as steaks and sausages. It should also be noted that chef Ben Horus has put together a large array of tasty vegetarian options, with a selection of salads, stews and other healthy and wholesome vegetarian offerings to please the taste buds.

With a number of microbreweries now dotted around ACT as well as an increased number of craft beer venues, it is the hope of many Canberrans that BentSpoke Brewing Co will continue to drive craft beer in Canberra even further. Tracy cites the wide range of breweries and brewpubs in many US states and cities as a sign that regions can flourish with multiple craft beer venues. With several quality craft beer locations now all within a close proximity to one another, it is the hope of all local beer lovers that the city can begin to make a name for itself as a truly quality craft beer locale and leader.


The author of this article, Adrian Moran, has been pouring beers for more than nine years. He is a bartender, bar manager and freelance beer writer who runs a weekly podcast devoted to craft beer. Find him on Twitter or online here.

Photos pilfered from the BentSpoke website and Facebook page.

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