It's always a fun time when Slipstream whip out their pair of Anniversary Ales: this year’s fresh, last year’s barrelled. Released at Slipstream’s 7th Anniversary Party on the June 1 – literally the first day of winter* - these puppies are setting us up for an excellent cold season.**
Long-time lovers of Anniversary Ale may have noticed that last year’s and this year’s iterations have had a little more smoothness, chocolate, and dried fruit than in the past. The reason for this is the changeover of head brewer that happened a couple of years ago: from one great brewer to another, and yet with different philosophies when it comes to brewing imperial stouts.
Earlier versions of Anniversary Ale had a robustness, as former head brewer Ian Watson brewed them with ageing at the forefront of his mind; they were brawny and roasty, designed to hold up for a decade of cellaring as they kept revealing their softer, more nuanced flavours.
Now, Slipstream head brewer Gavin Croft has a slightly different goal for the Anniversary Ales; he doesn’t ignore the evolution of flavour he’d like to see from a few years in the cellar, but his focus is on what will tickle punters’ palates today. With that in mind, he dialled back the roast to let more sweet and subtle intricacies from lighter toasted malts show through immediately.
First, the new Anniversary Ale VII. The huge dark brown foam serves up a faceful of malt; I got an almost rummy aroma with a spiritous waft, burnt brown sugar, and a hint of spice and caramel. There’s still roast to be had in this one, but it’s paired with dark fruits and dark chocolate, with a gently boozy warmth rolling across the tongue.
Then we get to the Barrel Aged Anniversary Ale VI. Woof. While past years have seen rum barrels and red wine barrels bring their less common magic to this annual release, this one’s classic bourbon, and it’s a rollicking good time. The barrels were still dripping when the beer went in 12 months ago, and it shows: this beer has a bourbon character that couldn’t be described as anything but “fat.”
I don’t want to say that it’s overpowering – there’s still the malty chocolate, the toastiness, the raisin sweetness – but it’s charismatic, swinging its big ol’ vanilla and caramel and oak all over the place. And, as I say this, I hear that it sounds brutish, but it’s really not: this one is even smoother and has less boozy warmth than the fresh stout.
Mick Wüst
*Unless you’re one of those “It’s not properly winter until the solstice” people. But I don’t need you overcomplicating my life. I organise my life with Google Calendar, not the moon.
**Insert comment about Brisbane’s winter being short and not very cold here.
Published June 4, 2024 2024-06-04 00:00:00
