When you cast an eye over the range of customers that has pulled up a chair at The Lincoln in Carlton, the history of the place becomes abundantly clear.
Despite a reinvigoration of the venue in late 2014 when former MoVida Aqui manager Iain Ling took over the 160-year-old pub, it still remains true to its foundations. For Iain, too many neighbourhood pubs had been taken over only to be sanitised with clean lines and modern fixtures to fit the apparent desires of the middle classes.
To avoid the risk of ripping the soul out of the place, Iain and his team erred on the side of caution with their upgrades, simply adding a few illustrations here and there, and brightening up the white walls in the dining area behind the bar. The deco influence of the building’s exterior makes its way onto the walls, with liquor ads from the 20s and 30s spread around the walls, and 20s style geometric shapes adorning even the coasters.
The effect means The Lincoln has held on to its loyal customer base of students, tradies and locals, while adding enough interest for foodies, beer lovers and groups of young people to come calling.
The food menu received an upgrade too, with a seriously high-class menu that's helped The Lincoln secure a Critic's Choice pick from the Good Food Guide (just one of many high profile awards picked up by both Iain and the venue) while retaining its mantle as a neighbourhood pub first and foremost.
Updates aside, the large 20s style bar remains the centrepiece of the whole building, and its 12 taps are a haven for people seeking independent, Australian craft beer, not least during the annual Pint of Origin festival where they host Tasmania's brewers and have a habit of ordering seemingly every beer on offer from brewers across the Bass Strait.
The wine list focuses on small producers offering interesting releases, the spirits and cocktails are extensive – in short, the easiest way to look at it is that The Lincoln simply does everything you'd want from a good pub, and does it all excellently.
Given the efforts the owners have gone to, the Lincoln is now the kind of place you could spend a fair few hours in every week. Dinner with friends on a Tuesday, a quick drink at the bar on a Thursday, footy on the screens with a big crowd on Saturday, then a leisurely Sunday lunch with relatives could be achieved without a second thought. It’s almost dangerously easy.