Melbourne likes to claim plenty in the way of “bests” for itself.
Best coffee they say. Best city for live music. Best for sports too. Best statue of an earthworm. Best tram network… The list goes on.
And, whether you heartily agree or wish to quibble with such claims, the Victorian capital certainly does a lot of things very well, including small bars such as Whisky and Alement. This bar in the heart of the city has been recognised globally for its commitment to the water of life – and you don’t need to spend long in this whisky wonderland to understand this international attention: it boasts one of the best collections you’ll find anywhere.
Bottles and casks don’t pour themselves, however, and just as central to Whisky and Alement’s success is the staff, balancing an encyclopaedic knowledge of all things whisky (and whiskey) with the ability to share their passion with aficionados and newcomers alike.
The bar is the vision of Julian White and Brooke Hayman, who first welcomed customers in 2010. Even then, the backbar awaiting all who walked through the door at 270 Russell Street was impressive, and the selection has only ballooned since.
Their ever-changing menu features hundreds of drops sourced from across the planet; thanks to their relationship with the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, the team also has access to some of the rarest pours you’ll find.
But it’s not just whisky and cocktails that Whisky and Alement champion: as the second part of the venue’s name alludes beer has always been a big part of their story too. As with distilled malts, the bar frequently rotates its beer offering through the latest releases that are exciting the team.
While they don’t have any beer taps, there’s a broad selection of cans and bottles, which staff might suggest for those moments before you move onto whisky, between whiskies, or to be enjoyed as one half of a boilermaker.
And it’s with the last of these that Whisky and Alement truly excels: the staff take great pleasure in creating the perfect pairings, tying flavours together or allowing the meeting of malts to reveal something spectacular.
Given the vast range on offer, their commitment to an ever-evolving lineup of booze, and their relatively cosy setup, you might wonder if the bar could be somewhat frenetic. But like any well-made whisky or beer, time inside Whisky and Alement is intended to be enjoyed and savoured; the dimly-lit bar is a comfortable hideaway that could just as easily be located in New York or Edinburgh. Step off Melbourne’s CBD streets and you’ll feel like you’ve entered another world, one where calm moments of reflection reign supreme, and in which hours can vanish.
The whisky room upstairs is a key pillar in the venue’s raison d’être. It’s here they host classes designed to help broaden guests’ understanding of spirits. It’s played host to some of the world’s sharpest minds and makers in distilling – and beer for that matter; those in attendance when Garrett Oliver held court will have the experience seared into their memories.
Yet, while the team is serious about the liquids at the heart of the venue, you’d never accuse them of placing their passion on a pedestal. Much like the good coffee, live music, sport and tram networks, good whisky and beer can be enjoyed on any day and in any moment. And Whisky and Alement has made that a reality for Melbourne.
Will Ziebell
All photos by James Morgan