Crafty Crawls: Fitzroy

November 26, 2024, by Crafty Pint

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Crafty Crawls: Fitzroy

As Melbourne’s oldest suburb, Fitzroy can likely lay claim to a history steeped in more beer than most other parts of Australia. From the moment the Gold Rush turned a British-controlled outpost into the wealthiest city in the world, Fitzroy became home to Melbourne’s working class for whom beer soon followed.

Today, the suburb is so far down the path of gentrification it’s probably time nobody ever mentions the process of gentrification again and we just accept that it is gentrified. Yet, despite the exorbitant house prices and brutal rents, the suburb has managed to retain not only much of its charm but also its nightlife, in no little part thanks to an ability to hold onto so many of its old pubs.

By retaining these watering holes and allowing new ones to rise, Fitzroy offers up no shortage of places to get your hands on some quality beer, whether that’s inside a 100-year-old pub with a parma as an accompaniment or a small bar as you tuck into a plate of pad Thai. 

The suburb holds so many excellent craft beer spots that there's no way to cover them all in a day; we've even divided the entries between two writers, with Will Ziebell visiting some and Benny Kennedy-Cox tackling the others. 

NB The Catfish can be found in The 86 Tram Crawl, which is next in line for an overhaul...


The Standard Hotel

 

A stone’s throw from Fitzroy’s westernmost boundary of Nicholson Street, it’s unlikely you could wish for a better welcome to the suburb than The Standard Hotel which, true to its name, sets a standard for what a good inner-city pub should be.

The Carlton Draught signs adorning its exterior may make beer nerds wary, but you’d be sorely mistaken not to step inside. Besides the Melbourne Bitter and Carlton, beer from locals and interstate breweries regularly flows through the taps of the front bar. However, beer is just one of many things that make the pub so perfect. 

The bar is the ideal spot from which to enjoy the regular blues and rock outfits The Standard hosts but the real gem here is the sprawling beer garden out the back. It’s easiest the largest in Fitzroy: a secluded spot that makes the Standard an easy place to wile away the hours away with a good beer in hand. Will Ziebell

The Standard is found at 293 Fitzroy Street


Labour In Vain

 

Before I visited, fellow Crafty writer Will Ziebell told me: “I've always had a soft spot for [Labour In Vain] as it was the first place in Melbourne I bought a pint as an adult.”

After one visit I completely understand Will’s soft spot. I doubt too much has changed at Labour In Vain since Will’s first visit and why would it? The old mirror adverts, ancient Carlton bottles, and decorative frosted glass in the timeless front bar are what attracts the co-mingling locals, some of whom are the new clientele and others who were there to witness Will’s debut pint during the first Rudd administration.

There are 12 taps at Labour In Vain and half of them are dedicated to craft beer where the focus is on fresh and local. Young Henrys and Stomping Ground are always there but expect limited releases from small Victorian breweries; I think The Mill Brewery's extra stout pouring next to the Guinness tap best sums up the experience at Labour In Vain. 

Nicotine fans will enjoy the rooftop oasis but the front bar offers the essential experience of enjoying a beer in a classic Australian pub. Benny Kennedy-Cox.

Enjoy one on the wood at 197A Brunswick Street


The Rooks Return

 

Named for a chess reference you may not care to delve into too much over a pint, The Rooks Return is cosy with exposed stone walls, framed motel art and chalkboard walls. Order a bowl of pretzels at the bar or ask them for the pieces from their free-to-use board game collections.

Outside of the tavern ambience, the rear courtyard offers the Fitzroy house party experience without the pretension and the added pleasure of watching an intense games of chess.

Across the six taps, the beers available are entirely crafty, catering to categories that should satisfy just about any palate: lager, pale, sour, hazy, dark and “pash”. In theory they are always changing but the Hargreaves Hill Lager and the Venom Cherry Sour have been there for years. 

On the teeny stage area, there is live music every day that features jazz, DJs and the frequent sound of all things honky tonk. To put it simply, your neighbourhood sucks if you don’t have a place like The Rooks Return. BKC.

Make your move to 201 Brunswick Street


Little Hop

 

The name screams “craft beer” but the aroma proclaims “tacos”. So is Little Hop a craft beer bar or a taco joint? The answer: both. If only there was a famous taco-related meme that celebrated choosing both options...

Starting with the tacos, which if you sit at the bar are prepared right in front of you. I’m partial to a fresh and crispy fish taco but the pork al pastor was our favourite. There is also an extensive vegetarian menu and, as with the beers, you might find yourself ordering several rounds as they get chomped down all too quickly. 

Beer is the go at Little Hop and, even with only a couple of taps, the venue always keeps things interesting with the variety coming in tins and bottles. What you can expect from an upscale restaurant's wine list you can expect at Little Hop with the long beer menu featuring specialised sour and NEIPA listings as well as a titillating “Something a Little Special” menu with imperial porters and barrel aged sours. 

If you want something a little more down to earth, order a Michelada: Tecate with ice, tomato juice, jalapeno and Worcestershire sauce with a salt and chilli rim. It’s a beery Bloody Mary and a crawl in a glass. BKC.

Hop to it at 277 Brunswick Street


The Rainbow

 

The Rainbow Hotel first rose from this Fitzroy backstreet corner more than 150 years ago. Once the purveyor of sly grog, underground gambling and less-than-reputable characters, since 2010 it's been the home of high quality pub food and fine beer across its taps. 

That change in direction came courtesy of brothers Jason and Adam King, who had previously run nearby icon and good beer pioneer Lambs Go Bar prior to its passing, and set about refining the offering upon which they’d built their reputation, reshaping and refurbishing the bar, restaurant and beer garden into one akin to the best of British.      

The Rainbow has since become the kind of local that manages to bring in drinkers from further afield and make them feel like regulars before the first glass has been drained. Whether you call in for one of its legendary Sunday roasts with a side of live music or on a Wednesday night for the famous steak night, it’s a pub that regularly fills to the brim with anyone looking for a good time with a side of good food and great beer. WZ

Enjoy the Rainbow's charms at 27 St David Street


Napier Hotel

 

Take a stroll just a few hundred metres through the backstreets, past the grandiose pillars of Fitzroy Town Hall, and you'll find the Napier, a pub that was part of Melbourne’s Gold Rush era pub explosion. And, in similar fashion, the old pub has operated as a meeting place for all in the area for generations.

Over the years, the building has played host to politicians, gangsters and film crews, the last of those enticed because, above all else, this is a place that could be the dictionary definition of classic pub, right down to the memorabilia of the long since migrated Fitzroy Lions adorning the walls.

These days, both the food and drink offerings of the Napier couldn’t be further removed from the tepid lager and thin white bread sandwiches of six o’clock swill days as the pub brought good beer and food under its roof years ago. The kangaroo topped parma is infamous, as too is the Bogan Burger that contains enough protein to turn your bones and muscles into wrought iron.

As for the beer, the Napier’s 14 taps put a particular focus on beer that’s best enjoyed by the pint, whether it’s porters, pale ales or an ESB. WZ

Immerse yourself in classic pub action at 210 Napier Street


Marquis of Lorne

 

The Marquis of Lorne serves up three storeys of good beer (not to mention excellent wine and food) from a corner building that looks out over two of Fitzroy’s quieter streets. 

Inside, each level offers a slightly different feel, with the ground floor a lively public bar, the second a slightly more subdued dining space that’s home to a welcoming roaring fire through Melbourne’s cooler months. On both, you’ll find quality pub fare and a Victorian-centric list of beers on tap.

The final level, the Marquis’ rooftop bar, gives punters not only glimpses of the surrounds but also the wonderful feeling of looking into the city with a delicious drink in hand. WZ

The Marquis Of Lorne resides at 411 George Street


The Rose Fitzroy

 

Anther Fitzroy backstreet, another corner pub with good beer...

The Rose has long been a place to enjoy the football on weekends and time hasn’t altered that, with football memorabilia lining the walls and horseshoe-shaped bar, and thoughtfully placed televisions ensuring you needn't miss a moment's action.

But, since a renovation in 2016, more space was opened up and with it came even more beer in the shape of a plethora of Aussie independents regularly pouring across its 16 taps. 

While it has a more contemporary feel throughout, fundamentally The Rose is a pub without pretence in which trivia, steak and parma nights and laughter fill its sturdy old walls during the week, and where beer is best enjoyed by the pint. WZ

The Rose is at 420 Napier Street


Deep End

 

It might sound a tad dramatic to say dreams come true at Deep End Pizza, but if you grew up idolising 90s cartoons with yellow illustrations of fat pepperoni pizzas then I personally think the statement is more than apt. The tiles are red, the ceiling is tall, and the staff are your best friends.

The focus is on “regional American pizzas” with the showstopper / Instagram gave being the Chicago deep dish. But the Detroit, New York and varieties like New Haven and Chicago Tavern style that even the most ardent Australian pizza fan are likely to be unaware of are all masterfully crafted too. 

Star-studded pizzas might be the draw, but beer is championed too, which was always going to be the case considering two of Melbourne's best beer minds, Kate Paterson and Paul Kasten, are among the bar's founders. 

It means the beer menu is diverse so, if your perfect pairing is a slice of New York with a glass of Wildflower Table Beer or a West Coast Pilsner with some gooey deep dish, then you'll well and truly be looked after. Speaking of which, I'm also delighted to say this is a venue that takes its late night service seriously, seating and serving us when we walked in at 10pm. It was a spectacular and cheesy way to end the night. BKC.

Indulge in everything at 412a Brunswick Street


Near & Far

 

It’s hard to write about Near & Far because once I tell you the bar features 18 rotating taps of beer I really don’t know what else needs to be said to convince a reader of The Crafty Pint. Seriously. What else do you need? 

OK, well there’s a pool table, a gourmet sandwich menu on offer until 4pm, and cosy rooms upstairs where you'll find one of the best people-watching spots along Brunswick Street. Local beers feature heavily but you might also find imported delights from UK brewers such as Pomona Island and Vault City. A lot of it is sessionable but plenty of it is potent, sour, weird and not to be missed.

Next door is the bottleshop where you will find an even more diverse array of beers from easy-to-chug six-packs to special tall tins for sharing and toasting. The staff are the type with extensive hospo backgrounds as long as their tattooed arms and, as a result, they are ready and willing to help you pick out a special pint either to go or at the bar. 

There are growler refills here but, really, this is the place to stop and have a yarn and temporarily forget you’re meant to be writing an article. BKC.

Find the Near & Far and the bar at 373 Brunswick Street


The Punters Club

 

The Punters Club has a long history but step inside these days and you’ll find a classic Melbourne corner pub that has moved with the times while staying true to itself. In more recent years, it was known as Bimbo Deluxe where cheap pints and even-cheaper pizza was the vibe, but go back further and it was a legendary pub and live music venue known as The Punters Club. 

In 2024, it reopened with that former name as something of a statement of intent: the local boozer was back and music could once again start too. Walk in and you'll be treated to a building wrapped in nostalgia; there’s a little art deco going on in the old school front bar, adapted into a modern tribute to the pool room. Live music is constant, as is the greasy waft of some old school cheeseburgers.

The tap list sums up the old school/new school symbiosis of the Punters Club better than any beer writer could. Yes, there’s XXXX on tap but there’s also Mountain Culture, Fox Friday, beers from Bridge Road, The Mill and the crisp, sessionable house brew Punters Draught. BKC

Take a punt at 202 Johnston Street


Other Options

Still in need of more? Well, you're in luck...

  • Bonny – 177 Brunswick Street: A modern bar with an impressive 27 taps that largely pour wine and signature cocktails alongside a small selection of beers. 
  • Bar Liberty – 234 Johnston Street: Nominally a wine bar, the Fitzroy establishment is well known for its quality menu alongside a drinks list that includes cocktails and craft beer as well as an extensive range of wines from around the world. 
  • Rochester Hotel – 202 Johnston Street: Another impressive old boozer that's worn many guises over the years and holds different meanings for successive generations of Melburnians (for Will Ziebell, the alternative UK dance nights during his early years at uni will forever hold a special place in his heart). Opening with new owners in 2024, you'll find a small selection of indie craft across The Rochey's taps. 
  • Black Pearl – 304 Brunswick Street: One of Melbourne’s most heralded and globally-recognised cocktail bars also happens to keep a strong list of good beer.

A suburb lined with beer bars and pubs should, of course, have its share of bottleshops and Fitzroy is no exception to that rule, with a big selection on offer at: 

  • Fitzroy Cellars – 409 Brunswick Street
  • Wine Republic – 265 Brunswick Street
  • McCoppins Fitzroy – 165 Johnston Street
  • Blackhearts & Sparrows Fitzroy – 123 Smith Street
  • Smith Street Cellars – 195 Smith Street

Crafty Crawls are the name we give to suburb and, on occasion, regional guides; you can find more from across Australia here and download the free Crafty Pint app to find all the above venues and hundreds of others plus events, special deals and more.

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