In the early 20th century, German and Czech pilsners were all the rage in Europe. Belgian brewers were finding that people weren’t drinking their boozier, more flavoursome ales as much. They were faced with a choice: doggedly hold onto their brewing heritage and refuse to change (and probably go belly-up), or let go of the way you do things and just start making pilsners to please the masses?
They went with secret option number three: develop a new style of ale that captures the drinkability of those lagers, but is still very Belgian.
A hundred years later, Madocke brew their version of this style: Spéciale Belge. It’s basically a lighter amber ale, with a coppery shine and enough caramel malts, noble hops and Belgian yeast to bring the character their proud brewing tradition is known for. Just… with less booze.
Now, before we go any further, I’m going to need someone to give me a little slap and say: “You’re a silly goose for starting to drink this beer while it was still fridge temperature.” Because I did, and the first sip was underwhelming. But as it warmed up a few degrees (as I should have let it do before I opened it), this beer opened up beautifully. There was sweet biscuit, light caramel, a touch of spice… what started as underwhelming grew to a rich depth of flavour. Even the aroma, which had already held toffee, roasted coffee and milk chocolate, developed a slight whisky note to add to the experience.
Sessionable, but by no means lacking in flavour. Just don’t forget to let it warm up a little before you drink it.
Mick Wüst
Published May 31, 2024 2024-05-31 00:00:00
