The Belgian witbier – and wheat beers more generally – once ruled refreshment in parts of the world between the World Wars before lager’s industrial dominance took deep root. One example in particular, Hoegaarden, remains well known, although its history is borrowed: 1445? More like 1966. And, given the current drinking climate, making one in the Twenties seems like the most punk rock brewing option, even if the liquid is hazy.
In the glass, King Road's take on the Euro classic releases yeast-driven white pepper and spiced aromas, although implied clove elements are tamed on the tongue. Orange zest and coriander seeds provide clean citrus appeal as the light sweetness moves dry, then spritzy, with the beer's close a reminder of just how refreshing these beers can be, especially in summer.
Guy Southern
Published January 13, 2021 2021-01-13 00:00:00