Anyone that decides to go through a rebrand can open themselves to risk. They risk losing their core audience, might fail to attract a new one, or even fall out of touch with themselves. It’s a fine act to balance, but it’s one the team at the Hunter Valley’s longest-established brewery has managed with aplomb.
The operation known as The Valley Brewhouse today has borne a few names since brewing first started on their Nulkaba site, notably Hunter Beer Co and, for a period, as Newcastle-based FogHorn Brewery’s Hunter outpost. Indeed, when heading to the venue by the side of Wine Country Drive and the Brick Beehive Kilns, locals are more likely to tell their cabbie to take them to Potters (the accommodation behind the venue) in the same way your grandma might ask to go to Grace Brothers.
Yet there’s an understandable reason for this stubborn nostalgia. Like the venue, the beers themselves have worn many names but stayed the same under the watchful eye of brewer Keith Grice, who has been there since the beginning and, if you’re lucky, might even be there during your visit.
Unlike the Hunter Valley wine industry, which has dug its feet into the soil, craft beer seems to be constantly weathering the storm in this photogenic region just an hour from Newcastle and two-and-a-half from Sydney. Yet, over two decades and counting, The Valley Brewhouse has continued to do its bit to ensure there’s an oasis for beer lovers amid this NSW wine region.
Upon arriving, visitors will immediately notice The Valley Brewhouse feels like two venues in one, connected by a cosy shaded courtyard.
The welcoming main bar seems to have been built around a central square bar, where groups gather for wines, pub feeds and other more typical pub tipples. Across the courtyard is where you’ll find the brewery/taproom, which can sometimes offer you a quieter experience – especially when a Knights game is playing in the main bar. And unless it’s a sunny day or you want to watch your kids on the play equipment, it’s the latter where those who’ve travelled for the beer are likely to be found.
The white-tiled tasting room bar features ten taps covering the entire Valley core range plus seasonal releases. To the left of the bar is the brewing gear: copper-coloured and on full display. Close your eyes and breathe it in, or get up close with a tour for $29 which includes three tasters. There’s plenty of group seating available on stools and leather couches too, where you might enjoy a tasting paddle of four beers for $20.
And speaking of beers, let’s get into them, shall we? Starting with the core range…
There’s the fresh, floral and hoppy Pacific Ale – a delicately carbonated, sticky yet sessionable offering. Alongside that, and resplendent in copper is the Pale Ale, with a subtle bitter balance drawn from Simcoe and Aussie Cascade hops. The most modern of the bunch is Hazy Pale, a potent passionfruit taste bud settler that comes across like you’re drinking electricity and the colour green. Citra, Mosaic, Galaxy and Simcoe hops give this beer its big flavour, or as brewer Dan calls them: “the cheat code hops.”
However, it’s Draught that’s the famous one. This undercover Aussie legacy beer (truly a kolsch) was first brewed by Keith back in 2003 under the name Draught so that people would actually drink it (Keith walked so we could run). This is an all-day beer for all seasons: refreshing, crisp and with Gladfield pilsner malts employed to such perfection I can’t believe they brewed another beer afterwards.
Limited releases are often as stealthy as the hero beer. During my visit this included the Berry Wheat (a saison in truth) and the enigmatic Tea Time, which was revealed to be an English bitter. The seasonal Magpie Porter is the definition of a fireplace beer; subtle chocolate, vanilla and black forest flavours make this an oozing and irresistible drop that makes a perfect growler fill before an anniversary weekend in the Hunter Valley.
If you’ve forgotten your growler, venue manager Claire will can your favourite beers for you right before your eyes. Valley Brewhouse have no beers sitting around in fridges, just empty cans waiting to be filled and sealed just for you. But before you go, make sure you head out to the courtyard and put a brisket sandwich from the Smokehouse Kitchen in your mouth (Saturdays and Sundays only) and you may well find yourself melting like the slow-cooked beef in your mouth.
Valley Brewhouse may just be the best refuge for craft lovers in the Hunter, whether you’re looking for a place to meet up with friends and family or just to escape both for a bit. Just don’t tell your driver to take you to the Potters. Ask about the Valley Brewhouse courtesy bus instead.
Benedict Kennedy-Cox
