As we approach the midpoint of the year, Holgate's brewers are just about keeping on track with their mission to release 25 limited releases in the brewery's 25th year. For number nine, they've kept things traditional too: a Munich-style dark lager, or dunkel. And why not? After all, Paul Holgate was inspired to start brewing commercially by the beers he enjoyed on work trips to Northern Europe.
As such, the specialty malts are set to work alongside classic German lager hop Hallertau Mittelfrüher – although it's the former that are responsible for most of the beer's character, not least its appearance; it's fair to say Dunkel couldn’t look more gorgeous: the brightest of chestnut colours with a clarity that is the polar opposite of hazy.
The style is meant to deal in subtleties and this does just that: gentle toasty / bready aromas, hints of toasted nuts (lots of toasty things, in fact), a fair bit of chocolate that leans into the darker realms without being bitter, and a clean, dry finish that comes with a twist. It's one that reminded me of Black Forest gateau; the brewers reckon Morello cherries. Same same but different.
James Smith
Published June 11, 2024 2024-06-11 00:00:00
