A winter beer that's not an Imperial Stout - who'd have thunk it? At least that's how it feels this week, with Holgate's annual release of its dunkelweizen coming in the midst of a wave of big, black beasts. A beer named in homage to Brick Kiln Road in Holgate's hometown of Woodend, which was where founders Paul and Natasha had the inspiration to open a brewery while out rambling, it's one inspired by the dark wheats of Bavaria. It pours such a deep brown that the punch of the candy bananas on the nose is quite surprising, the sweet milk chocolate malt flavours that follow less so. There's the faintest hint of tartness to finish in what's otherwise a rich, sweet, almost dessert like beer that's now out in 500ml bottles.