King River Brewing seem to be reaping the rewards of a brewing career focused, for the most part, on traditional styles, with one example being an invite to collaborate on the offical beer for Carwyn Cellars' 2023 Oktoberfest. The liquid of choice is another to play upon the brewery founders' surname: KRB Dortmunter Lager. Inspired (visually as well as style-wise) by the Dortmunder Export style of stronger German lagers – most notably that of DAB – this one features specialty malt from Voyager for a loca twist.
They've not held back on the extra booze – 6.6 percent ABV compared to DAB's 5 – in a beer with a gleaming, polished copper appearance and an equally shiny toffee-honey sweetness courtesy of Voyager’s malt. Indeed, it’s sweeter than I recall the beers it's inspired by from my time drinking them before moving to Australia, with the softly spicy hops more of a bit player and the bitterness crawling slowly over one’s palate.
While that beer debuts at the event on October 7 and 8, there's two more Euro styles doing the rounds in tallboy tinnies from King River right now too. My Ambrosia is their spin on another stronger German lager style, the maibock, and the name suits as it’s a fruitier, more estery and sweet take than many such beer: A honey-drizzled banana bread of a beer, full and coating of texture, with echoes of Belgian strong golden ales, and a dry, spicy finish.
Dubbel Or Nothing gives its inspiration away in the name. The beer first appeared at Bendigo On The Hop and pours with a lovely chestnut colour and a fulsome head. It delivers its wares with relative restraint: raisins, hints of banana, treacle sponge, a little flat cola. It's not overly dry but not wantonly sweet either, just malty, ester-enhanced flavour from start to finish.
James Smith
Published October 2, 2023 2023-10-02 00:00:00