Suppose you had more than two decades of highly-awarded and influential brewing mettle. What would beer would you release to celebrate a new epoch?
Given their storied history, Feral must had a few to choose from. But, in a Bradbury-esque manner, the hero for this moment was there all along. Iconic, authentic, cloaked in history and bedazzled with awards bling, Boris is the perfect celebration of an independent renaissance, whether intended or not.
One of Australia’s first commercially available imperial stouts, Boris was available draught-only for years before the occasional bottle release. As such, it’s a beer that fans found rather than the other way around, dragging them into flavour not offered elsewhere, and in the process changing the notion of beer itself as this publication’s founder observed.
Fifteen years ago, this imperial stout started out as the last beer on the brewpub tasting paddle before ascending through the tasting order. And, for its debut canned outing, it may well be the first from the fridge in the cool, post-Winter Solstice evenings.
Always generous, this year’s Boris balances roast, rich molten dark choc and coffee – espresso and filter – within a lush malt profile that feels almost creamy at times. Bitterness, however, remains firm, direct and distinctly Feral. A touch sticky on the lips, there's a mature dance of kecap manis and liquorice fleeting through the fine carbonation, and echoing an increasingly misty nostalgia for the OG Baskerville digs.
Welcome back. And, what a perfectly timed entrance, Mr Boris.
Guy Southern
Published July 29, 2024 2024-07-29 00:00:00
