This Mash trio’s deepening hue charts a path towards the shorter days of seasonal change. Beginning with the vibrant pink of Dawson’s Kriek, the Swan Valley brewer’s farmhouse yeast-fermented base beer was conditioned on macerated cherries which deliver not only an energetic blush, but also fruit tartness interwoven with lacto-zing. As for the name, Mash note synergies with the 90s TV series' "turbulent teenage years"; they can feel incredibly immediate, however, things change, angst fades, and as one can viewer offered, unaware of the Katie Holmes vehicle: "That label’s from a meme, isn’t it?"
Mash’s adolescence birthed Copy Cat, then a cheeky reaction to aggressive, hop forward styles, which after claiming AIBA Champion Beer became an almost Bradbury-esque icon, spawning recurring variants, among them Red Cat. Pouring an alluring clear, deep amber, the caramel malt body holds ample pine with supporting orange / grapefruity citrus, subtle dankness and a touch of spice - this edition’s 6.5 percent ABV an indicator of the moderating effect of a maturing market, or perhaps the end of adolescence.
Which leads us to Freaking Out The Neighbourhood, a wild ale collaboration with the celebrated Margaret River winery Windance Estate. A red ale base was blended with biodynamic cabernet juice before ageing in a mix of French and American oak with wild yeast drawn from Windance’s Wild Things Pet Nat.
The effect is akin to an oud bruin: there's flashes of the Liefmans classic yet with far brighter acidity, not to mention the cabernet’s vinous edge. Red berry, dark cherry, plum plus fruit tannin input lead with barrel’s lasting evidence a meld of vanilla, tobacco and leather hints – this is ball park stuff here, however, as each bottle’s evolution will deliver a slightly different experience.
Guy Southern
Published June 9, 2023 2023-06-09 00:00:00
