Wildflower

As the Australian craft beer world becomes ever more crowded with breweries, it’s increasingly difficult for new businesses to stand out from the crowd. Wildflower is one of the most unique to open in recent times.

Started by American expat Topher Boehm and Australian brother in law Chris Allen, theirs is not a brewery in the typical sense, in that it does not have the equipment necessary to brew beer. Their Marrickville warehouse is, instead, full of barrels. It is a blendery, and understanding how that works is key to understanding what Wildflower is.

Many – perhaps most – local breweries now dabble in some form of barrel ageing, but at Wildflower it is effectively the sole focus. And many – if not all – local breweries use yeast supplied by a laboratory, but Wildflower has gone au naturel: Topher travelled around New South Wales collecting and culturing wild yeasts, taken from things like flowers and bark, then propagated them over a number of years until he had something viable for brewing. That is the ‘wild’ part of Wildflower. It was blended with a Belgian saison strain and become the house culture, used to ferment all the beers. This is the one thing they have that will always, in some way, be different to every other brewer in the country. And it is the reason they have taken to calling their beers Australian Wild Ales.

Because they don't have a brewhouse, the base beer is made by their friends down the road at Batch Brewing before being transported back to the Wildflower warehouse. Next, the beer gets fermented with the aforementioned yeast and transferred into barrels where it is left to develop for several months. After the allotted time in oak, Topher tastes the contents of every barrel and blends the various batches into a finished beer. It is a complex and constantly evolving thing, to blend beer, with the amount of barrel stock increasing and developing different characters over time, meaning the possibilities for blending become almost exponential and the beer does not become the same thing in perpetuity, but a constant progression. 

The Wildflower concept, and the beers they produce, is based on the methods of some of the great breweries of the Old World – in particular those around the Franco-Belgian border like Brasserie Thiriez – plus some of those on the cutting edge of the New World – such as Jester King from Texas and London’s Partizan. These are breweries where yeast is held up as the hero of the whole operation and the beer exists merely to serve it. Topher spent time working and learning at these places, being immersed in a specialised beer community and bringing their secrets back to Marrickville.

It is all manifested in just three beers: a gold, an amber and a table beer. The first two are the pillars of the barrel project and, while they have certain parameters they will maintain in terms of profile, they can be expected to change over time as the amount of barrel stock expands and ages and the yeast does whatever it is want to do. The outlier is the table beer which is bottled without seeing the inside of a barrel as it is a beer meant be drunk fresh; as such, the only place you will find the table beer is at Wildflower.

The warehouse itself has plenty of charm and a distinctly European feel; dating back to the 19th century, the old exposed wooden beams form a rustic skeleton which complements the wooden barrels while contrasting with the new corrugated aluminium walls. The repurposed wooden furniture completes the picture perfectly, which is little surprise considering Topher built it all that way with his own hands.

In keeping with the slightly unconventional and often slower pace of the Wildflower way, the warehouse is only open to the public on Saturday afternoons for tastings and takeaways. There are, however, opportunities to join Topher on a tour before the offical opening, which is as good an introduction to the experimental world of wild beer as you could want. In fact, if you’re not into beer, go to Wildflower with an open mind, take a tour and be prepared to fall in love with it. And if you already love beer, take a tour anyway. You may well fall in love all over again.

Nick O

NB If you want to go deeper still, here is Nick's original article on Wildflower published a few weeks before they had their first beers ready.

Name
Wildflower
Address

11-13 Brompton Street
Marrickville
NSW 2204

Website
Hours

Friday & Saturday: 1pm to 8pm

Tours

Saturdays: 12pm to 1.30pm. Includes a tour, tasting and barrel samples. $25. Bookings via the website.

Wildflower Regulars

Wildflower Table Beer

Tapped June 3rd, 2017
A beer to prove that simple need not be boring, Wildflower’s Table Beer is based on the Belgian style of the same name – although in Flemish they, quite naturally, have their own name for their own beer: ‘tafelbier’. The style itself is generally an approachable, light bodied, low alcohol beer that can act as kind of a catchall accompaniment to meals. Wildflower’s take on this is based on a simple wheat malt base, a sparing amount of hops, their house yeast - and that’s it. Unlike the… Read more
Style
Australian Wild Ale
Strength
3.0%

Wildflower Gold

Tapped June 3rd, 2017
One of the central forces driving Wildflower is change. The nature of their barrel ageing and blending process means that consistency between bottled batches of beer is more of an aim than it is a requisite feature. That said, there’s a natural progression based on a general guideline. Take the Gold beer, for example. It sits in saison territory (however broadly you might want to apply that brush to the style) and the first batches could be succinctly described as showing citrus and stone fruit… Read more
Style
Australian Wild Ale
Strength
5.0%

Wildflower Amber

Tapped June 3rd, 2017
A counterpoint to the lighter gold beer, Wildflower’s Amber leans on a longer boil in order to generate its copper colour and a slightly sweeter, more robust malt body. Once it’s been through fermentation with the house yeast it’s transferred to oak barrels where the yeast really goes to town, producing funky and fruity characters up front and a lingering sourness. But the key, as with a lot of things in life, is balance. And that is in large part due to the art of blending and being able to… Read more
Style
Australian Wild Ale
Strength
6.0%

Wildflower Specials

Wildflower Waratah

Tapped October 21st, 2017
Somewhere deep down you get the feeling it’s all been building to this. In recent years, as craft beer has spread outward to seek new audiences, many brewers have looked inward towards local production as a point of pride and distinction. That’s most frequently manifested in a brewery supplying exclusively, or predominantly, to its local area, but the concept runs right through the chain to the sourcing of ingredients. You’ll hear many breweries proudly, and quite rightfully, preaching of… Read more
Style
Wild NSW Ale
Strength
5.0%

Wildflower – St Florence

Tapped October 14th, 2017
Wildflower has a way of making every beer feel a bit special, but its newest release is particularly so. Called St Florence, it’s been made in celebration of the recent birth of head brewer Topher’s daughter and the beer appears to have had a gestation as complex as the miracle occurring in the womb. At the beginning of the year it started life spontaneously, from fruit grown down south in Gerringong and Sauvignon Blanc grapes from out west in Orange. After spending a week macerating, a barrel… Read more
Style
Wild Ale
Strength
7.0%
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